이화여자대학교박물관

Traditional footwear in Korea is roughly divided into hwa, shoes with a high neck and derivative from the mounted nomadic tribes in the north, and ri, low shoes that were developed from the agricultural areas in the south. Records on Korean footwear appear since ancient textual references. According to the Biographies of the Wuhuan, Xianbei, and Dongyi of Book of Wei that are included in the Annals of Three Kingdoms, leather shoes were worn in Buyeo and straw shoes in Mahan. Shoes of Goguryeo can be found in ancient tomb murals, which depict people wearing hwa and ri regardless their class or gender. Since the Joseon dynasty, hwa were established as the footwear worn by noblemen with official or military uniforms, and ri, commonly called hye, were worn for daily use by both men and women. In late Joseon, the design of hwa became lower and its sole got flat. With the design of hye, as the tip became pointier and the outer rim lower, its unique beauty presented a sleek yet curved profile. Unlike clothing, footwear was produced by professional artisans, and the exquisite shapes of a shoe allow us to glimpse at their deft craftsmanship.

In this exhibition, Joseon’s traditional footwear is displayed showing a variety of pieces including mokhwa, which were worn with official uniforms, ceremonial shoes and taesahye made of leather and silk, which was everyday wear for the upper classes, danghye, unhye, and straw shoes worn by commoners. And by including rubber shoes from the modern period, the exhibition examines the changing history of footwear in Korea. As we witness how footwear completed an outfit in harmony with the clothing, we will be able to appreciate the beauty of traditional Korean attire and better understand the lifestyles of our ancestors.